For the past couple of decades, night owls with the munchies have flocked to a certain street in Beijing that is packed with all-night restaurants, sidewalks jammed with cars, and a perpetual patina of rancid-smelling cooking oil on the sidewalks.
One of the trendier restaurants on the block is called A Very Long Time Ago. The decor is upscale Paleolithic, with silhouettes of cavemen traipsing across the walls. The clientele is not so fossilized. They're mostly 20-somethings who roast skewers of food over hot coals.